Which camera to choose?
With the democratization of mirrorless cameras – now available from just £400 – the price of DSLRs and high-end cameras has drastically dropped over the past six years. This is a great opportunity for amateur photographers, or newcomers looking for a high-performance camera to fuel their passion. It’s also a good time for those wishing to ease gently into the world of professional photography – with a bit of searching online, you can even find a pro body like the Nikon Z6 II for less than £1,400!
Whether you are a novice, beginner, already experienced or advanced, in this article we will consider together the most important points to choose your camera well in 2025.
Table of Contents
- Purpose of this guide
- Types of cameras
- Different types of sensors
- Main features
- Purchase options and budget
- Which camera for which genre/type of photography (comparison table)
- Final word: your camera body isn’t that important!
Purpose of this guide
This article is aimed at novices, beginner photographers or experienced amateurs wishing to buy their first camera or renew their equipment in 2025. If you want to find the SLR or hybrid camera best suited to your needs, you’ve come to the right place!
Its content is designed to be practical and concise. I won’t dwell here on the overly technical aspects (particularly concerning sensors, for which I’ll write a dedicated article later) but I will provide links for those wishing to delve deeper into these subjects. This article is not a glossary of technical terms, but rather a summary of my experience as a professional.
I’ve been a pro photographer since 2016. I started out after training at the Agnès Varda School of Photography, and soon opened my own studio. I’m not an ambassador for any brand (Nikon, Canon, Sony, Fujitsu…), and the products I recommend are either products I’ve already used myself, or references on the market.
A) Device types
There are many different types of camera, and your choice will depend on your expectations in terms of performance and budget. There are five main families:
- Compact and bridge
- SLR camera
- Hybrid camera
- Silver camera
Compact Camera and Bridge Camera
To begin with, compact cameras are small and lightweight and their lens (usually a zoom) is built into the body and therefore cannot be changed. They are mainly designed to be practical, which comes at the expense of their performance. They are generally less expensive than other types of cameras, except if you opt for high-end models.
“Bridge” cameras work on the same principle, but with a more complex and higher-quality lens. In this way, they are closer to a reflex camera—hence their name, since this type of camera literally bridges the gap between compact cameras and reflex cameras.
I won’t dwell too much on compacts and bridges in this article because the inability to change lenses and their limited capabilities (sensor sensitivity in low light, autofocus quality, etc.) will clearly limit your creative and technical progress. Compacts and bridges can be interesting for people looking for a lightweight and compact camera (for example for travel), a “retro” object, or for simple use such as feeding a vlog. In my opinion, however, they don’t really fit into an approach of discovering the full range of possibilities in photography, except perhaps for street photography.
I should add that, if you want a compact camera with good performance, you’ll find yourself looking at prices around five hundred euros (such as the Panasonic Lumix TZ99). In that case, you might as well buy a reflex camera.
Tip: avoid compacts and bridges if you are just starting out in photography. If you have a limited budget, I would recommend starting with an entry-level digital SLR body such as the Nikon D3200, which goes for around £200 new for the body only in the UK. Bought as a kit with an 18-55mm zoom lens, you’ll be at £280. These bodies have the same basic features as a high-end/professional camera, so you can develop transferable skills for when you decide to buy a higher-end model.
Digital SLR cameras
For many, digital SLR cameras are the first step towards creative and/or professional photography. The name “SLR” comes from the way they work, which is based on a system of mirrors that reflect the image entering the lens so that you can see it in the viewfinder.
They allow you to change lenses according to your needs and the situation, and control a wide range of parameters such as shutter speed, aperture and ISO sensitivity. They feature a mirror system so you can view the scene through the camera lens.
Entry-level models such as the Nikon D3200 can be found for around £220 to £260 new, offering the same basic functions as professional models.
Tip: if you’re on a tight budget and the weight and size of the camera are not important criteria for you, an SLR camera is, in my opinion, the best value for money to get started in photography. The budget you save on the camera will enable you to buy an additional lens and thus extend your creative capabilities.
Minimum budget: Around £650-£800. Allow £440-£520 for the camera itself, and £220-£260 for a basic lens (e.g. a 50mm fixed focal length with f1.8 aperture).
Hybrid/ Mirrorless enclosures
To put it bluntly, hybrid (also known as mirrorless) cameras are undoubtedly the best option if you want to explore the creative possibilities of photography. They offer almost identical performance to DSLRs , but are distinguished by their compactness and certain exclusive functions.
For example, at similar performance levels, the Nikon D780 SLR weighs 840 grams (bare body), compared with just 694 grams for the Nikon Z7 ii hybrid, for a much slimmer, more compact body.
Tip: if your budget allows it, a hybrid camera is probably the best option available for learning photography. Opt for a bare camera and buy a good-quality lens such as a 50mm fixed focal length or a 24-70mm zoom.
Minimum budget: £750-£1,650 in total. Around £440-£1300 for the camera + £300-£350 for a decent lens (e.g. 50mm opening at f1.4)
Silver cameras
Silver cameras are the ancestors of digital cameras. They use a plastic film coated with a layer of silver salts – hence the name silver camera.
Apart from enthusiasts, few people today use silver halide because of its many limitations:
- You can’t see your photos while they’re being taken, as you have to wait until they’ve been developed.
- The cost of development is very high, especially if you use a laboratory, whereas it is free with a digital camera.
- Development also adds waiting time, vs. digital immediacy
- You’re limited in terms of the number of photos you can take by the number of rolls of film you’ve brought with you.
Quite simply, in my opinion, film photography is a “purist” option, but not necessarily the easiest way to start. That said, practising film alongside digital photography is very enriching, and helps you understand the origins of certain tools and indicators still in use, such as ISO. You’ll also gain a better understanding of the notion of layers in Photoshop, for example.
Hybrids vs. SLRs: which to choose?
The difference between SLRs and hybrids/ mirrorless isn’t in the sensor (which can be full-frame or APS-C, like an SLR), but in the display, the size of the body and certain functionalities. Hybrid cameras use an electronic viewfinder, meaning you see the image as received by the sensor in the viewfinder. There’s no need for a set of mirrors as in a traditional DSLR.
For me, there’s no doubt that a hybrid camera is much better suited to the practice of photography than an SLR in 99% of cases. Personally, it really changed my working environment when I switched to a hybrid.
What are the advantages of a hybrid over an SLR?
- The image you see in the viewfinder is the image you’ll get, down to the pixel. With an SLR and its optical viewfinder, there’s a difference between what you see and what you’ll get in your final photo. This can be extremely frustrating when you’ve spent a lot of time composing an image perfectly!
- You also see the actual exposure of your image, i.e. adapted to your chosen sensitivity, aperture and shutter speed. With an SLR, you see the photographed scene but without applying your settings – This feature will save you a lot of time when learning about exposure, and will enable you to quickly get an idea of the relationship between its three variables.
- As the hybrid doesn’t need a slot to integrate the mirror system, it’s much lighter and more compact. It may not sound like much, but if you spend several hours on a shoot, a few hundred grams will make a big difference to you.
- Hybrids feature advanced autofocus systems such as eye and face detection. This detail is far from insignificant, since it ensures that when you’re shooting a portrait, the focus is on the subject’s eye. This is essential for a successful portrait, especially if you want to use a high aperture (1.4, see 1.2). With an SLR, you may accidentally focus on the eyelashes, in which case the iris may appear slightly blurred/lacking sharpness.
- Last but not least, hybrid cameras generally have a removable screen that allows you to view the image perfectly during shooting, even in difficult situations (lying flat on your stomach, camera held at arm’s length above you, etc.).
Some disadvantages of hybrids vs. SLR cameras
Hybrids are not a perfect miracle solution.
- they’re much more fragile than an SLR, especially the screen, which I damaged on my Z6 II by storing it against one of my lenses in my bag)
- they’re also less weather-resistant (topicalization), so be careful if you’re shooting outdoors in rain or snow
- the price of hybrid devices is much higher
As an entry-level hybrid, the Canon EOS R100 offers decent performance for a price under six hundred euros. Its well-built APS-C sensor is sufficient for photos taken under conventional conditions in terms of movement and light (portrait, landscape, etc.).
Other examples of hybrid cameras are suitable for beginner photographers, such as the Sony Alpha A6100, which is very well made but comes at a much higher price (around a thousand euros).
As an entry-level hybrid, the Canon EOS R100 offers decent performance for a price under six hundred euros. Its well-built APS-C sensor is sufficient for photos taken under conventional conditions in terms of movement and light (portrait, landscape, etc.).
Other examples of hybrid cameras are suitable for beginner photographers, such as the Sony Alpha A6100, which is very well made but comes at a much higher price (around a thousand euros).
B) Different types of sensors
The sensor is undoubtedly the most important element, as it captures light and converts the image into digital data. Its size is the first main criterion to look at, before considering other aspects such as its resolution (number of pixels) or dynamic range.
Four formats dominate the camera market:
- The 4/3 sensor
- APS-C sensor
- The full-format sensor
- The medium-format sensor
But what’s the difference between a 4/3, APS-C or full-frame sensor?
- The size of the sensor influences the amount of light it can capture. In other words, if you want to work in low-light conditions (night photography, for example), opt for an APS-C or even a full-frame.
- Size will mechanically affect the number of pixels on the sensor, since the available surface area will be smaller on a 4/3 than on a full-frame model.
- depth of field is generally better managed with a full-frame sensor, which offers a shallower depth of field.
Micro 4/3
Common format for compact and bridge cameras. Too small in my opinion, as it has significant limitations in terms of brightness and resolution if you want to print large runs of your images.
APS-C
Most common in entry-level and mid-range SLR and hybrid cameras. A good balance between performance and price, it allows you to work in most situations, and enlarge if you wish.
Full format/ Full Frame
The ideal in terms of image quality and light management, but much more expensive as it is generally reserved for semi-pro or professional cameras. Better results, especially in low light, with grain reduction.
Medium format
The medium-format sensor is, contrary to its name, the largest of all sensors. It has a direct impact on the price of the camera, and is therefore reserved for very high-end cameras.
Even among professional photographers, few use a medium-format sensor, due to its very high price. For example, the Fujifilm GFX 100S (bare body) costs around six thousand euros, which is still pretty cheap for a medium-format camera…
A few key points to remember about the sensor
- Sensor size and pixel count are not as important as you might think: for most amateur photographers shooting in average light conditions , a 24-megapixel APS-C sensor is more than enough.
- In the same way, even if you want to make enlarged prints, today’s printers are capable of making very large prints with an APS-C sensor. You don’t need a full-frame sensor if you just want to make prints up to 40x60cm, for example.
- Full format only makes sense if you plan to work in difficult lighting conditions, to make very large prints (60x90cm or more) or to become a professional.
- Last but not least, most people won’t notice any difference between a photo taken with an APS-C sensor or a full frame.
Main functions of the camera
Beyond sensor and body type, there’s a very long list of specifications that differentiate each camera, but I’m going to focus here on the features that I feel are most important when choosing a Reflex or Hybrid camera.
For me the main features of any camera should be:
- ISO sensitivity
- Min/Max shutter speed
- Internal stabilization
- Autofocus
- Memory buffer
- Simple or double memory card slot
- Autonomy
- Connectivity
ISO sensitivity: important for low-light photos
ISO defines the camera’s ability to capture light in low-light conditions. A camera with a high ISO max capacity will enable you to shoot in low light, for example indoors or at night.
In practice, it’s unlikely that you’ll really need a camera with a high sensitivity (above ISO 3200). If you’re shooting in the middle of the day, or even at the end of the day, you’ll rarely need to exceed ISO 1600, which most cameras can handle without a problem.
If, on the other hand, you plan to shoot in low-light conditions (at night or indoors in a dimly-lit location) then you may need to go up to ISO 3200. Don’t worry about cameras that can go up to ISO 64000 or more, because you’ll probably never need them. Also, grain above 3200 becomes quite noticeable in low light, and prevents you from making good-quality paper prints, for example.
Shutter speed: to freeze movement
Shutter speed (expressed in seconds or fractions of a second) controls the time during which the sensor is exposed to light. The shutter speed you need will depend on the type of photos you plan to take:
- Fast (1/1000s or more): Ideal for freezing moving subjects (sports, animals, etc.) or shooting in very bright conditions (sun at its zenith).
- Slow (1/30s, 1s, etc.): very useful for creative effects like light trails or long exposure (waterfalls, stars, etc.). Most cameras go down to a shutter speed of 30 seconds.
If you’re interested in this type of effect, make sure that your camera also allows you to manually control shutter speed, and that you can keep the shutter open at will (for several minutes or even hours).
Stabilization: to avoid motion blur
Two types of stabilization are available:
- Body-integrated stabilization (IBIS): More versatile, works with all lenses.
- Optical stabilization (in lens) : Depends on the lens used.
A stabilized body is a real advantage, especially in low light or video.
Autofocus: responsiveness and precision
Whether you’re a professional or a hobbyist, autofocus is one of your camera’s most important functions, since you’ll be working with autofocus 99% of the time, rather than with manual focus. So it needs to be fast, intelligent and precise.
Hybrid cameras offer a huge autofocus advantage over SLRs, with an autofocus zone that covers the entire screen. They are also equipped with intelligent features such as eye detection, face detection and even animal detection.
There is therefore no doubt in my mind that hybrid cameras offer superior autofocus. Note that compacts and bridges often have the same capabilities.
A few important points to look out for when it comes to autofocus on your future camera:
- Number of collimators: The more collimators you have, the better for tracking a moving subject.
- Eye AF and/or face detection: Very useful for portraits and wildlife photography.
- Tip: Choose a camera with fast, precise autofocus, especially if you’re doing sports or portraiture.
Autonomy and connectivity
DSLRs often have better battery life than hybrids, especially when used in manual mode. This is mainly due to the fact that hybrids use electronic viewfinders and backlit LCD screens, which are particularly power-hungry features.
The buffer memory
If you’re planning to shoot a fast-moving subject, buffering is an extremely important feature.
In practical terms, this refers to the camera’s ability to temporarily store images taken in a burst, so that you can continue shooting. The number of photos taken before the camera has to stop to process them varies greatly from one model to another.
It can range from a dozen RAW files for an entry-level camera like the Nikon D3200, to up to 120 images for monsters like the Sony α9 III (at a price of seven thousand euros however)!
New, Used, Refurbished: your purchasing options
- New: Latest technology and manufacturer’s warranty.
- Second-hand: Good value for money for beginners.
- Reconditioned: An economical and reliable option, often tested by the manufacturer.
While I have no problem buying a used lens, I’m much more hesitant about buying a used camera body.
Which device for which type (comparison chart)
| Type of photography | Device type | Sensor | ISO sensitivity required (medium) | Shutter speed | Internal stabilization | Autofocus | Buffer memory | Devices for beginners |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Portrait, Glamour, Boudoir | SLR, Hybrid | All formats | 100-1600 | 1/125s - 1/500s | Indifferent | Medium to fast | Average | Canon EOS 2000d, Nikon D3200 |
| Landscape, Architecture | SLR, Hybrid, Compact, Bridge | All formats | 100-1600 | Manual - 1/500s | Indifferent | Indifferent | Low | Canon EOS 2000d, Nikon D3200 |
| Sport, Subjects/Animals in motion | SLR, Hybrid | APS-C or full format | 800-3200 | 1/1000s and more | Yes | Very fast | Grande | Canon EOS 850D, Nikon D7500 |
| Concerts, Events | SLR, Hybrid | Ideally full-frame, possible with APS-C | 400-6400 | 1/250s - 1/1000s | Yes | Very fast | Grande | Canon EOS 850D, Nikon D7500 |
| Animals (cats, dogs, horses) | SLR, Hybrid | APS-C, Full format | 400-3200 | 1/250s - 1/2000s | Yes | Fast | Average | Canon EOS 2000d, Nikon D3200 |
| Macrophotography | SLR, Hybrid | Ideally full-frame, possible with APS-C | 100-1600 | 1/250s - 1/1000s | Yes | Indifferent | Low | Canon EOS RP, Nikon Z5 |
| Street photography | SLR, Hybrid, Bridge, Compact | All formats | 400-3200 | 1/250s - 1/1000s | Yes | Fast | Average | Canon EOS 2000d, Nikon D3200 |
| Product photography, Packshot | SLR, Hybrid | APS-C or full format | 100-400 | 1/125s - 1/250s | Indifferent | Indifferent | Low | Canon EOS 2000d, Nikon D3200 |
| Travel, Reportage, Documentary | SLR, Hybrid, Bridge, Compact | All formats | 100-3200 | 1/125s - 1/1000s | Yes | Indifferent | Average | Canon EOS 2000d, Nikon D3200 |
| Low light, Night photography, Astrophotography | SLR, Hybrid | Ideally full-frame, possible with APS-C | 800-6400 | Manual - 1/250s | Yes | Indifferent | Low | Canon EOS RP, Nikon Z5 |
Final word: your camera body isn’t that important!
The first reaction when starting out in photography is to think that you need an expensive camera to take professional-quality shots. There’s absolutely no need to buy an expensive camera to get started! The performance of the camera generally has very little visible impact on the image produced. I started out with a Nikon D80, which cost around £700 in 2008. I can take almost the same picture with an entry-level SLR as I would with one of my professional cameras. I’ve also seen some absolutely horrifying images taken with a whooping £4,500 Nikon Z9.
The difference will only become apparent if I find myself in particular conditions (low light, fast-moving subject, etc.) or if I want to make very large enlargements of my images. But 99% of the time you won’t! I’d advise you to start with an entry-level camera like the Nikon D3200, buy one or two good-quality lenses and get the most out of your camera before thinking of buying another one.
